Wave Whore Turned Wave Snob

I got barreled in a wave last month. The barrel was not very impressive. It wasn't a stand up, I was in a low crouch. It only lasted 3 seconds and it closed on me before I got out. All that considered, it was the most exciting thing to happen to me all month. I still get a smile on my face when I think about being inside that tube. The wave totally enclosing me. My eyes wide open, the way the sun changed when occluded by the lip. What made it even more fantastic was my friend, having taken the previous wave, saw the whole thing from the inside. He was so jealous.

That one experience has transformed me into a total wave snob. Formerly, I was a wave whore. I would paddle out on any day just to get wet. Now I look out there and I'm like eh, looks crappy I'll go hang with The Dude.

But, I went out today and it wasn't that great looking. I caught some waves. Turned out to be fun. Then the Lords of Kooktown showed up. Yep, Heath Ledger, Michael Angarano, Emile Hirsch, Victor Rasuk, and John Robinson. These guys are gonna be the cast of Lords of Dogtown a David Fincher production to chronicle the adventures of Stacy Peralta, Tony Alva, Jay Adams, and the other Z-boys. I hope their skate lessons are going better than their surf lessons. I get that you guys want to stay authentic but come on! Get some leashes till you get some skills! You don't want to be splitin' anyone's skull.