So, I am a surfer. I don't mean that I'm a pro-surfer. I just mean that I like to surf. I am not phenomenal, I'm not even really good.
Me and my friends hit the surf at least 3 times a week. More most of the time, since I don't have to be at work till 10:30. We like to surf El Porto, CA and other breaks in the LA area. I was surfing down at El Porto quite a bit, twice a week then surfing Santa Monica on the weekends. Getting down to Porto was taking its toll, a 40 min drive chunk out of my day. Less surf time is bad. So I stopped going there for a bit. Santa Monica's beach is about 2 miles away so I can be in the water much sooner.
Down at Porto I used to surf with these guys Gio and Ken. It was a running joke that I had never seen Gio stand up on a wave. Others had seen him, just not me. I'd only witnessed him tumbling over the falls and being directly in my way for a sweet wave. Apparently he's gotten much better because not only have I seen him on a wave, you can too. The guys at Eppic Surf took this sweet pic of him. I wish I had a quality pic of me.
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