Cowabunga

Today was really good surf! I pulled a floater for the first time. Went down the line on several good waves, front side and back side. Smacked the lip backside. All around good surfing day. Nobody was out there either. I wonder if most people thought it looked to big or if they were scared away by the shark. There were times when I was out there and I psyched myself out thinking about it. But I don't believe in sharks, so there.